We woke at 4:40 for an early breakfast and start for the hardest day of the trek. By the time we got out the door it was 5:50 and there was no need for a headlamp, but the sun was blocked by the large mountains ahead (we were going east) and we pressed on against the biting cold. This was the first time I busted out the large down jacket that Himalayan Glacier loaned us and it was definitely necessary. The start of the walk was technically simple, still an upward climb, still cold and still at elevation, but easy footing. And it was long. I found myself employing various tactics to distract myself, resorting not so far in to “99 bottles of beer on the wall.” This soon failed, and I went to my happy place: dogs. I pretended in my mind that I was out in the backyard of my childhood home, playing snowball fetch with Beyaz (my family dog who recently left us).
::99 bottles of beer on the wall..::
After a bit of a climb we reached the top of a hill from where we could view the actual pass. It’s a decent downhill climb, and then a steep, rocky incline, followed by an even steeper, rockier, icier incline. I asked Rishi one final time, “you think I can do this?” He confirmed, I took a deep breath and on we went.
::top of the first hill.. before the big bad pass::
::looking out at the pass::
I don’t recall exactly when I began to panic, but I know it culminated in tears and me turning to Alan to say “Alan, I’m panicking. I’m freaking out!” Rishi said something along the lines of “there’s a lot of work to be done here,” and pulled me onwards, directing me in nearly every step as I tried to avoid slipping down to a rocky, icy, deathly fall. I wound up arriving faster than the rest, thanks mostly to the jet-like propulsion of fear and the most intense desire to not be there anymore. Also because Rishi pulled me up the last few steps. In fact, by the final several meters I must have looked on the verge of fainting because every time I looked up, huffing and puffing, there were at least a handful of men holding their hands out for me to grab on and get pulled up to the next boulder. So thank you, strange men and especially Rishi.
::beginning of the rocky pass::
::it’s about to get hard::
::crunching away in the ice::
We had a mini feast at the top of the pass (5370m!), Rishi jovially handing out hard boiled eggs, Snickers bars, biscuits and fistfuls of toasted corn with soya beans that another porter had.
::clearly i was not as jovial::
While Jenni would be hard-pressed to recall it, the views from the top of the pass were actually quite beautiful. We could see Nuptse, Cholatse, Taboche, Ama Dablam…
Crossing the snowfield to descend is by comparison a million times easier than the ascent, but it is quite a slippery path. I know it looks like I’m doing the robot in this picture, but I’m actually just trying not to slide down into the center of this giant ice field.
I wish I had known that our “down” side of the pass was by comparison super easy. I think a large part of my panic attack was the realization that “holy crap, even if I make it up this damn thing, there’s no way I’ll make it back down.” But thank my lucky stars, crossing from west to east as we did is a far more difficult uphill.
::about to head down the other side::
::and we’re off::
::down down down::
::down down down::
The whole day took us less than 6.5 hours, compared to the guides’ warning of 8-9. And this includes several stops on the walk down for me to puke behind rocks. Alan, the ever dutiful blog photographer on this trek, did not fail to capture evidence of my ailment…
::damn you, altitude::
Arriving in Dzongla, I was barely in a condition to communicate. I flopped down in the common room and proceeded to pass out while the rest of the team enjoyed lunch. Thankfully that ended up being the worst of my altitude sickness and it was much smoother sailing from here on out.
::view from our teahouse. absolutely stunning, maybe my favorite spot of the trip::
::stunning morning light in Dzongla::
Alan adds: I think part of why crossing Cho La Pass was the hardest day is that the terrain made it nearly impossible to relax and take your time. With most of the trails and days, we are able to move at an awkwardly slow pace when ascending and thus help avoid headaches and greater shortness of breath. But much of the ascent to cross the pass was so steep and rocky/icy/snowy that we really had to scramble and expend bursts of energy.
::another epic toothbrushing view::
Also, I admire Jenni for pushing herself and overcoming fear and sickness. It can be difficult to know when one’s altitude symptoms require descent vs. just tolerating pain and discomfort. Perhaps even harder only a month after being hospitalized following uncertainty about her ailments at the time. Jenni fought through like a champ and this allowed us to finish the trek with great success.
::heading out of Dzongla::
On the walk out from Dzongla, to Lobuche (where we joined back up with the main EBC trail), we peeped some climbers on their way to summiting Lobuche East. Incredible. Check out the zoomed in shot, and then for some perspective on the feat they accomplished, look at the next zoomed out shot of the mountain they are on.
::that’s the mountain they are climbing!::
We, on the other hand, were very thankful to have a much easier day post-Cho La. A quick couple hours leisurely walk brought us back to the EBC trail (and way more people!).
We did our loop hike by first going up the Gokyo Valley and then crossing the Cho La Pass from west to east. Some do it in the opposite direction. As noted above, we were happy to ascend the steeper and more challenging side of the pass and descend the comparatively easier side. The views on the descent were awesome, too, with Ama Dablam directly ahead of us.
You could leave from Gokyo and cross the pass in the same day, but it would be pretty hard. Crossing the glacier from Gokyo to Thangnag is not so easy, and you want to cross the pass early in the day to increase the likelihood of favorable conditions. However, if you are looking to save time, you could definitely make it all the way to Lobuche on the same day as crossing the pass. We were not in a rush and with Jenni’s altitude sickness we were happy to settle in Dzongla, but you could hike another 2-3 hours and get to Lobuche well before dark.
Accommodation: In Dzongla we stayed at the Hotel Zongla Inn. The location was breathtaking, with Cholatse towering above us.
The trail became steeper and narrower after we split from the main EBC route and headed up the Gokyo Valley. We were rewarded with a far less crowded area and some truly stunning vistas.
::at the junction where we turned towards Gokyo::
We glimpsed our first Himalayan tahrs (like wild mountain goats) with hair that Fabio would envy, as well as these beautiful birds that we swear our guide called Mountain Patricks, but Google knows of no such thing. Maybe they were partridges? Whatever their name, we began seeing and hearing them a lot. Especially as we huffed and puffed up the side mountains and high pass, these birds would always be squawking and we detected a hint of laughter.
::call of the mountain goat::
::tahr on the trail::
::checking us out::
While we’d planned to trek a bit further before stopping for lunch, the views from Mong La, a small village en route to our first night at Dhole, were too good to pass up. The weather was still warm enough for us to sit outside and so we enjoyed a tasty meal here with this phenomenal view.
::lunch spot in Mong La::
The trails and trekking days became somewhat more difficult here, as the ups and downs increased. For example, I think our first day out of Namche had us starting at 3440m, ascending to 3980m where we lunched, descending to 3680m and then rising again to 4110m.
::more mountain patricks::
It was also here that the creature comforts began disappearing: no more free battery charging (only for a fee, and only when there is power, which often is generated from just a few solar panels), no more rooms with private toilets, and in general, say goodbye to western toilets. Hello holes in the ground and getting out of your warm sleeping bag and into your freezing cold boots to pee at night! At most tea houses there is no heat source except for a stove (yak pie fueled!) in the common room which is usually turned on around five at night and stoked through dinner. This common room is where we tend to spend most of our non-trekking waking hours as it’s warmed by the body heat and/or the fire. The rooms are far from the stove and have plywood thin walls (freezing. literally. your water, contact lenses and toothpaste all freeze overnight). Also, the common room is where we do the only three things we do aside from trekking: eat, drink tea and play cards. Rishi taught us how to play dhumbal, which is a Nepali game that’s easy to learn and a great way to pass the time. Lots of rounds were played over the next week and a half, lots.
::keeping warm by the stove::
::some spectacular teeth brushing spots on this trek::
::tea house, yak::
Leaving Dhole the views up-valley became more expansive: Cho Oyu straight ahead, Cholatse and Taboche off to the right and Thamserku and Kangtega behind and to the right. A relatively easy day of hiking took us to our next destination of Machhermo (4470m). But there is acclimatization to be done, so the day wasn’t quite as easy after an afternoon hike up the ridge behind town where the winds were gusting and again we saw Everest beyond Cholatse plus great views of Cho Oyu.
Having been delayed a day due to weather canceling our scheduled flight into Lukla, we had to find a way to make up a day. We decided to wake early the next morning, get to Gokyo quickly and try to see as much as possible that day so we could skip our “rest” day there. Wikipedia says the Gokyo Lakes “are the world’s highest freshwater lake system comprising six main lakes.” We passed “first lake” on our hike and it was thawed though tiny. Second lake was mainly frozen, as was third lake (i.e. the Gokyo Lake), which is where the town of Gokyo sits. Bummer because the pictures we’ve seen of the turquoise lake look gorgeous.
::stunning views and porters working hard::
Thus we decided to skip the optional hike up to fourth lake (it was higher and certainly frozen) that afternoon and instead we did a quick hike up to the ridge behind town from where we had great views of Gokyo Lake, the tiny hamlet of Gokyo and Gokyo Ri (to be hiked the next morning) to one side, and the Ngozumpa glacier (to be crossed after hiking Gokyo Ri) to the other.
Our tea house at Gokyo was another one of our favorites. It had lovely views, a warmish common area, and one of the toilets was western (although no western flushing mechanism, don’t get too excited now).
::view from our teahouse::
By now it’s getting colder but it’s still bearable. Neither of us wore multiple layers on the bottom until Gokyo. After that Jenni rolled three pants til Namche.
Our first of the “big four” destinations was Gokyo Ri. I call them the big four because they are the highest points on our trek, generally the most difficult to climb, and sort of the highlights of these treks. The big four are: (i) Gokyo Ri – a 5357m peak abutting Gokyo town and lake and which affords mind-blowing views of Everest and everything else; (ii) crossing Cho La Pass – maybe not so much a destination as a necessary evil to take you from Gokyo back to the EBC route; (iii) Everest Base Camp – self-explanatory; and (iv) Kala Patthar – the mountain near EBC and the highest point (5545m) on our trek. It’s clear that the altitude started getting to Jenni as she requested the “Call of the Mountain Goats” song as climbing inspiration (it’s In The Hall of the Mountain King).
::beginning of Gokyo Ri::
::halfway up, looking down on the town of Gokyo::
::looking out at Gokyo Ri from the ridge::
It took us just about two hours to summit Gokyo Ri (and about an hour down). Damn these mountains for looking so easy next to the mammoth peaks around them, because it is not a walk in the park. The climb alone is not terribly difficult. It’s an ascent of a bit more than 1800 feet, which would normally be a pretty breezy hike, were it not for the fact that you’re going from ~15.7k feet to ~17.6k feet above sea level. You don’t realize how much you appreciate oxygen until you trek at these heights! Jenni was definitely feeling the altitude at this point, and to top it off she somehow managed to ram her head into a rock a few feet from the top. Needless to say she wasn’t the happiest camper up there. (Alan had in his notes: “She didn’t even take chocolate from Andrew at the top!!” So. You know it was serious).
::mountains, glacier, Gokyo and the lake::
::mountains, glacier, Gokyo and the lake::
::alan and everest::
Check out these views of Everest, Makalu, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, Renjo La pass etc… from the summit.
::alan and everest::
After relaxing over lunch, we crossed the Ngozumpa glacier to get to Thangnag. At about 22 miles, I think it is the longest glacier in Nepal. While the glacier doesn’t look wide (you can see the town of Thangnag from the ridge just behind Gokyo), it’s not so easy to traverse, made difficult by the up and down plus loose rock and snow. The surreal landscape felt lunar. Two hours scrambling across the moon later and we made it to Thangnag where we were literally the only guests in our teahouse. We watched the snowfall as we (what else) enjoyed tea, cookies and several rounds of dhumbal. It was an early night to bed so we could rise early and face the beast: Cho La Pass. (P.S. a “late” night while trekking is 8pm, so…).
::descending into the glacier::
::that’s all ice, ice, baby::
Accommodation: In Dhole we stayed at Alpine Cottage Lodge. I think we saw a sign that a room costs 200, or 1000 if you do not take meals there. In Macchermo we stayed at Trekkers Lodge. In Gokyo we stayed at Gokyo Resort, one of our favorites. Our room #17 overlooked the lake and mountains. Here we charged batteries for 300/hour and the WiFi worked pretty well and cost 500/day. In Thangnag we stayed at Thangnag Guest House.
Food and Drinks: Lunch on the way to Dhole in Mong La was on the patio at Bouddha Lodge, next to Hill Top Guesthouse and near the Viewpoint Guesthouse. We thought the food at Gokyo Resort was some of the best. They actually seasoned dishes the way we might at home (much of the food served while trekking is uber-bland, requiring boatloads of assistance from the salt and pepper shakers).
Activities: We did not attend, but we saw signs for the free altitude talk daily at 3 pm in Macchermo. I think this is run by the International Porter Protection Group, whose website is http://www.ippg.net.
The big day had finally arrived, we were scheduled to fly from Kathmandu to Lukla to begin our Himalayan trek! And Jenni was nervous (isn’t she always?). The suspense was killing us as we waited at the domestic terminal of the Kathmandu airport for nearly six hours, only to be sent home around 2 pm when they called off all flights for the rest of the day. (Flights to Lukla are often cancelled due to wind). This has got to be one of the craziest airports I’ve ever been to: hectic as can be, there does not appear to be any usage of lines, but people gather in large groups around the piles of expedition gear, waiting for their turn to check in, and there are even monkeys crawling round outside. Emotionally drained, we headed to a hotel in Thamel for the evening to try again in the morning.
::a wee bit nervous::
::Kathmandu domestic airport – expedition gear::
Friday morning brought us success and we finally boarded the dinkiest of planes (I’m still nearly certain this thing is a toy, not a commercial vehicle) for an exciting journey to Lukla.
We grabbed seats on the left to enjoy the view of the mountains coming in. The views were pretty spectacular, if not a bit fear inducing. Luckily, a Swiss veteran of the Himalayas was seated next to Jenni and coached her through the ride. The landing is by far the most nerve-wracking part, approaching a runway that is maybe 500 meters long and uphill so the plane can stop in time.
::world’s tiniest landing strip!::
Apologies for the lack of photos. Jenni had Alan’s hand in a deadlock grip. Proof:
Upon arriving in Lukla we met our porter, Sange, who quickly earned our respect, hauling our duffel bags up and down the mountains with incredible speed and agility. Like all porters, he carries his cargo using a strap that goes over his head. And we learned that unlike say the Inca trail, there is no government regulation of how much porters can carry. So those willing to earn more in exchange for more bodily abuse might carry as much as 80-100kg!!
After our first of what proved to be innumerable cups of tea, we set out on our trek. In other words, we jam jam-ed. (Jam jam is Nepali for “let’s go.” Lots of jam jamming happened from here on out). The hike to Phakding was a leisurely walk over a mostly stone trail. We got our first views of some awe-inspiring mountains, though these were only ~6000m. To put that in perspective, most of these Himalayan dwarves would be the tallest mountains on every other continent except South America (Denali in Alaska is just under 6200m but many of these non-famous Himalayan peaks are higher). We had yet to peep the truly awesome 8000m peaks to come. We were also introduced to dzopkyos, a hybrid of cattle and yak, used to transport goods up and down the mountains (at and above Namche you mainly see yaks, but it’s too warm for the furry yaks down at this altitude). We learned right away that it’s not always easy to pass a dzopkyo (or yak) train and the traffic jams can be brutal.
Already we began passing Tibetan prayer flags and wheels, learning from Rishi (our guide) that we always had to pass to the left of the manis (i.e. clockwise, with manis to our right). We also observed that many locals have red cheeks from the cold weather.
We spent our first night in the happening (I kid you not) Himalayan town of Phakding. We checked out the Sherpa Liquid’s bar pool hall, bumping with some Guns N Roses, never mind that we (and our fellow Himalayan Glacier trekkers) were the only guests. (On this portion of the trek we were together with Michiel, Regina, Jarrod and Jenna from another Himalayan Glacier group, and their guide Dole. We parted ways with this group when we headed up the Gokyo Valley. Andrew and his guide, Shankar, were with us through EBC and Kala Patthar, and we parted ways when we continued down to Pheriche and Andrew went to climb Island Peak.) There was also a reggae bar and plenty of other bakeries, teahouses and restaurants.
::pool hall a la Phakding::
::our room in Phakding::
Jenni was beyond pleased by the presence of dogs at this elevation. She definitely considered sticking one in her bag. Who are we kidding, in the porter’s bag.
::himalayan kids and pups::
The land is quite fertile at this elevation, and we passed several steep terraced hillsides, planted with potato, cabbage, bok choy and tomato (who would have thought we’d be eating fresher and more local up here than back home?). We walked along the Dudh Kosi River, which drains the Mount Everest massif, crossing our first of many suspension bridges. While generally well constructed, some of these bridges are a little scary for one with a fear of heights.
The walk from Phakding to Namche Bazaar was our first “real” trekking day, taking around six hours including a stop for lunch. We crossed a few checkpoints where we entered Sagarmatha National Park. While waiting for the guides to pass through the checkpoint we played with a few local kids. They succeeded in toppling Alan over and in the process his boot crushed the poor kid’s hand. A few tears later and the two of them were playing patty cake. Tough little nuggets, those Himalayan raised kids are.
::cute little kiddos::
::entering the park::
The scariest bridge EVER was crossed: the Hillary Bridge. Newly built to replace the aging bridge Edmund Hillary sponsored long ago, which itself was up high, this one soars above at something like 200m high. Jenni was able to chant “it’s just a walkway” to herself and race across it without turning to a panicky mess. This is not to say that she was calm in doing so.
::see that bridge WAY up there? yeah, we crossed that::
::pictures do NOT capture how high this thing is!!::
This day proved to be one of the worst weather-wise on our whole trek (luckily) and so we missed the chance to spot Everest from the first viewpoint.
After a few hours of steeper climbing past the bridge we arrived at the booming mountain metropolis of Namche Bazaar. Kidding aside, this hilltop village is impressively large. It’s nestled in a steep hillside shaped like an amphitheater, lined with stone staircases and countless tea houses trimmed in blue, green and red. Above and within are terraced farm plots.
::alan and Namche::
::stairs through Namche::
We settled into what turned out to be one of our favorite teahouses, enjoying our 5 o’clock tea and cookies (a trekking ritual we already deeply miss) before a day we thought would be restful.
::chilling in the tea house::
::mani right outside our tea house::
::looking down on Namche::
The “rest” day started out promising: the sun was shining, we climbed briefly up to the museum where we caught our first glimpse ever of the world’s tallest mountain (cue Jenni gleefully exclaiming “I’ve seen Everest! We can go home now!”), as well as other big and beautiful peaks like Lhotse and Ama Dablam. From there a few from our group made the smart decision to actually rest, while the remainder of us headed up for further acclimatization.
::Everest! our first sighting::
::horse and Everest::
We viewed the old Syangboche airport (i.e. dirt strip), which is the closest landing strip to EBC but is rarely used. From there we continued ascending as the weather continued to decline. Through rolling fog we made our way up to the Hotel Everest View and got some sneak peaks of the spectacular vista when the clouds parted. Feeling the first effects of the altitude the mood declined for many of us. We did, however, eat lunch in Khumjung where we also saw our first yak, a “yeti” skull (recommend skipping this), and the Hillary school.
::first yak sighting::
::down to khumjung::
Back in town we had our last shower for over a week, something Alan enjoyed and Jenni regretted as soon as she realized her hair would freeze while she waited for it to dry. Also because those shampoo sheets are the worst invention known to man. (They do not lather, and they do not wash out. I had clumps in my hair for the next week.)
The next day we had about an hour and a half of trekking left with the half of our group going directly to EBC. The trail was lovely here, with fantastic views of Everest. We passed the Tenzing Norgay Memorial Stupa and saw some huge birds that I think were vultures. As the trail split we said goodbye to the others and turned left towards Gokyo Valley, leaving behind warmth and crowds.
Himalayan Glacier made all arrangements for us, but you could pick up guides and porters in Lukla or Namche Bazaar, I think. You can also find plenty of accommodation and some gear in these towns. We visited a store in Namche selling books, booze, SD cards, batteries, etc. It is a good idea to stock up on what you might need in Namche, as availability drops dramatically (and prices rise with the elevation)…especially if you’re heading up the Gokyo Valley and off the main EBC trail. Phakding is smaller than Lukla or Namche but still has several tea houses and some bakeries and bars.
Transportation: We took a Yeti Air flight from Kathmandu to Lukla. Try to sit on the left (when facing forward) of the plane for great mountain views. It is pretty neat to get off a plane and just start walking. Though it is far less common, you can begin your trek in Jiri and after several days join the trail between Lukla and Phakding.
Accommodation: In Phakding we stayed at Snowland Lodge. Our room had two twin beds and a private toilet, though there was a large square cut out of the wall connecting our bathroom to our neighbors. This was weird, and gave us flashbacks to our NYE experience in Agra, India. I think there were outlets in the room.
In Namche we stayed at The Nest and our room was much larger with a double bed and a nicer bathroom with hot water shower. We could walk out onto an unfinished balcony type space (I think rooms 210&211 have this feature). At The Nest there were outlets in our room and the WiFi for 500/day worked fairly well. There are several accommodation options in the villages at these low elevations, especially in Namche. Including the Hotel Hill-Ten.
Food and Drinks: All our meals were included in our tour arrangements, but generally breakfast costs 200-400 and lunch and dinner more like 300-700. Bottled water is readily available from Lukla to Namche for 80-120/liter. Beyond here, we used purification methods as water becomes more expensive and it is harder to recycle/dispose of waste.
We did the Everest Base Camp (“EBC”) via Gokyo Lakes trek with Himalayan Glacier. The mountain scenery was spectacular! Because we opted for an all-inclusive package, we have only limited info/knowledge regarding matters like air tickets to/from Lukla, hiring guides and porters, arranging permits, selecting accommodation, etc. We will talk about what trek we did and why, and we will share any insights gained. This post will be an overview and is heavy on the practical info. We will cover the segments in other posts with lots more photos.
Note that many of the village and other names have multiple spellings, and it is difficult to find exact stats for elevations and distances. We will generally use “feet” instead of “meters,” and keep in mind that the difference between starting and ending elevation may be a very rough approximation of total vertical gained or lost as some of the trails have big ups and downs.
We flew from Kathmandu to Lukla on Friday April 4. We were scheduled to fly on April 3 but after waiting several hours at the airport we were told to go home. Flights in and out of Lukla are frequently canceled due to weather/wind.
April 4: After landing in Lukla (9,315’) we hiked to Phakding (8,560’).
April 5: Hike to Namche Bazaar (11,300’).
April 6: Acclimatization day in Namche Bazaar. This became a notorious day as many believed it was a “rest” day, but actually it was a full day of trekking.
April 7: Hike to Dhole (13,480’). This is the day we split from the main EBC trail to head up the Gokyo Valley.
April 8: Hike to Macchermo (14,660’).
April 9: Hike to Gokyo (15,740’).
April 10: Hike up and down Gokyo Ri (17,575’) then to Thangnag (15,420’). Note that we skipped a “rest”day in Gokyo on account of missing our April 3 flight.
April 11: Cross the Cho La Pass (17,610’) to Dzongla (15,840’).
April 12: Hike to Lobuche (16,170’). This is where we rejoined the main EBC trail.
April 13: Hike to Gorak Shep (16,920’) then EBC (17,600’) and back to Gorak Shep.
April 14: Hike up Kala Patthar (18,200’) then down to Pheriche (14,000’).
April 15: Hike to Namche Bazaar (11,300’).
April 16: Helicopter from Namche Bazaar to Kathmandu. We planned to hike back to Lukla and fly out the next day, but someone on another trek with the same operator was sick and hired a helicopter so we got a free lift.
Why We Chose This Trek
We were deciding between this trek or the Annapurna Circuit, i.e. the two most famous. We did limited research and by no means are we expert on the Nepal trekking options. We had read there is now road access for part of the Annapurna Circuit, and that put us off a bit. We pretty much chose the EBC area for its concentration of jaw-dropping gigantic mountains.
I believe the Annapurna Circuit covers a more diverse range of climates and elevations. Pokhara is the gateway to Annapurna, and we are told it is a beautiful place and certainly flights to Pokhara are much less susceptible to weather issues.
My father had done the EBC trek (with a little side excursion to Chukkhung) a few years ago and loved it (aside from the cold and general lack of comfort). Once we settled on the EBC area, we still had several options. We considered the Three Passes route but decided that was a little too ambitious. I have hiked some 14’ers in the US and crossed a 16k foot pass in Peru, but Jenni had never been higher than 11k feet (i.e. the top of a US ski mountain). So not knowing how she’d respond to the altitude we didn’t want to commit to three passes, but we also wanted to get somewhat off the beaten path and enjoy more of the scenery. And while crossing Cho La Pass was by far the most difficult day, we were very pleased with the trek we chose and would highly recommend the Gokyo Lakes route to those up for the challenge.
By trekking up the Gokyo Valley, we escaped some of the crowds on the main EBC trail for a while. We enjoyed outstanding scenery and smaller tea houses. We saw a few Himalayan tahrs (relatives of wild mountain goats), which we did not see on the main EBC trail. And, as a huge plus, the overwhelming majority of our trek was a loop rather than out and back.
We met a Swiss group and one among them visits Nepal often. I asked his favorite trek and he said probably the Dhaulagiri Circuit. It is near Annapurna and I believe quite difficult. There are many different regions to trek in Nepal and some are more remote. Our goal was to see a lot of the really big mountains from really close, and that is why we chose EBC.
When To Go
The true peak season for EBC is around October-November. The air is clearest after the summer rains. The second peak is when we went, around mid-March to mid-May. I think very few trek during the summer monsoon months (think rain, mud and leeches), and you can trek through the winter but it may be very cold and some passes may be dangerous.
It seems that our April trek offered some advantages and some disadvantages. It was not as crowded as the fall, we generally had very good weather, and I imagine there is more snow around. The rhododendrons were in bloom, which was nice, though I think these may be more impressive on the Annapurna Circuit. We also saw many people on their way to climbing Everest, and the tents were all set up at EBC. I don’t think there are any tents at EBC in the fall and nobody climbs the mountain that time of year.
That said, all the lakes were frozen. So if you Google “Gokyo Lakes” and see brilliant turquoise water, you may be disappointed to see only snow and ice on arrival. I think the landscape in general would be more green in the fall, and surely the rivers would rage much more impressively. The air in Kathmandu was very hazy for us, and I think it (and views on the flights) is clearer in the fall.
We chose Himalayan Glacier. I had come across the company in a NY Times article. Overall, we were very pleased and happy to recommend this company to others. Our guide, Rishi, was great.
There are countless operators, both based abroad and in Nepal. When selecting an operator, you might consider things like how long they’ve been doing this, how they treat their guides and porters, what is included vs. extra, etc. One of the selling points for us was Himalayan Glacier’s willingness to ensure a private trip for the two of us. Although we spent most of our time together with other tourists and guides from the same company, Jenni and I had our own guide and we had the flexibility to adjust our speed or plans if necessary.
Independent vs. Guided
We saw plenty of people trekking without a guide and carrying their own large packs. I’m sure you can save money this way and can imagine one might have an even greater sense of accomplishment. Especially if you are sticking to the main EBC trail, it would be fairly easy to find your way. When you add the high pass and glacier crossing, it would be a little harder to navigate on your own, though certainly doable. That said, we never considered going independent and probably never would.
A day pack alone weighs a fair amount if you are properly prepared and carry a lot of water. Having a porter carry the rest of your belongings makes the trek more enjoyable and helps support the local economy. Our guide was extremely attentive and answered questions about the Himalayan way of life, which mountains we were viewing, etc. We never had to decide where to stay or how far to push each day. And we learned a fun card game called dhumbal.
There are ample tea houses covering the entire route. At lower elevations, the villages tend to be larger and have a more permanent population. At higher elevations, the villages are smaller and may have no year-round residents. Rather the tea houses are owned and/or operated seasonally by people who live down the mountain or even in Kathmandu.
Everywhere we stayed was basic, but there were some significant variations in comfort level. We always had a private bedroom. In Phakding and Namche Bazaar we had a private bathroom, and the latter even had a hot water shower. Everywhere else, the toilets were shared and generally consisted of a porcelain hole in the ground. Some places had western style toilets but with no seat and no flushing mechanism (aside from a jug of water to pour). We descended quickly on the EBC main trail and thus did not sample as many villages there, but I think you may retain some amenities beyond Namche Bazaar (e.g. in Tengboche and Pangboche etc.) vs. what we found in the Gokyo Valley.
There are some places that are more expensive and said to be more luxurious. These include the Hotel Everest View (we stopped here on our acclimatization day above Namche Bazaar and the views are wonderful) and some Yeti Mountain Home properties. What exactly these provide I don’t know, but I’m not sure the value for your money would be there (e.g. some of the tea houses we stayed in cost the equivalent of $2 a night, versus $200 I’m told for some of these “luxury” places, but I don’t think they are luxury in the typical, non-Himalayan sense).
Although dal bhat (literally lentils and rice) is legendary in these parts and perhaps once was the only option available to trekkers, you will have many other options at the tea houses. Breakfast choices usually include eggs, toast, porridge, pancakes, Tibetan bread (i.e. fried dough, yummy), etc. Lunch and dinner choices include fried noodles, fried rice, chicken or buffalo dishes, soups, popcorn, french fries, etc. Cheese may be limited to nak (female yak) cheese, which we found OK but some dislike it. It’s a bit pungent. Coffee is available and tea (in many flavors) is ubiquitous.
Our guide advised us that it is wise to avoid meat and milk above Namche Bazaar. Apparently they do not slaughter animals in the mountains and there is minimal freezing/refrigeration (aside from the cold temperatures, but it can be sunny and warmer during the day), so if you order meat up high then it may be many days old. That said, we saw some pretty experienced folks eating spaghetti bolognese in Lobuche. We also had fellow trekkers suffer stomach illness as early as Namche.
It is a good idea to bring along snacks, although we were well-fed and rarely needed these. Salt is your friend when sweating a lot. Nuts, granola bars, Snickers, etc.
How We Trained
We did not. I went back and forth between telling myself I trained not at all or that I’ve been training for the last eight years. We have been traveling for months and that entails moving around a lot, so it is not as though we stood up from our desks and embarked on the trek. Had we come from home, I am sure we would have been exercising a lot and hiking locally and probably doing sets on the Santa Monica stairs. Instead, after Jenni got sick in Borneo we scrapped some hikes we had planned there and in the Philippines.
The best advice I can give is to assess yourself honestly. If you are reasonably active and fit, I do not think you need to train at all. You cannot really prepare for the altitude, and that is the biggest wildcard. We felt that training would not have made much difference for us, except that our legs probably would not have been sore at all vs. being sore on a couple of the days.
The most important thing is having comfortable footwear that you can walk in for several miles day after day. And good balance is helpful. There is often awkward footing and some rock-hopping, some of it across water or ice and much of it on wobblers, and good balance will reduce your chance of injury.
Because we had been traveling around the tropics before arriving in Nepal, we brought less than we would have if coming straight from home. I think this was a blessing. This will be a detailed list of what each of us brought.
Buying Supplies Locally: The main tourist area of Thamel in Kathmandu is loaded with shops selling trekking and mountaineering gear. Most of it is fake and most shops do not pretend otherwise. There seem to be some shops selling legitimate gear that is priced as you would find it in the US, if not more expensive. Generally speaking, it is easy and cheap to buy fake fleece, down, hats, trekking poles, pack covers, etc. We bought a handful of genuine fakes and what seemed to be a real Camel-Bak reservoir and socks, since we did not want liquid leaking all over our things and good socks are critical. Note that the advertised sizes on the fake backpacks we saw were grossly inflated, i.e. if you actually want a 30L backpack you should probably buy one that says it’s 50L.
Himalayan Glacier loaned us (included in the trek price) sleeping bags and big puffy down jackets.
Bags: Himalayan Glacier provided us with waterproof duffel bags that the porters carried, and it was delightful to have so much extra space in these bags such that packing each day on the trek was the easiest it has been our whole trip. I used the 35L Gregory daypack I’ve had for years, and Jenni used the 18L REI lightweight pack we bought for the broader trip. This was quite small and meant she could not fit many layers in it, nor carry much water. So Alan wound up carrying the water for both of us and Jenni supplemented the small backpack with a fanny pack. That’s right, she’ll be rocking the fanny pack in some or all of the photos. For your viewing pleasure folks. (P.S. Don’t knock it til you try it. That thing comes in handy in the Himalayas!).
Shared Miscellaneous Items:
Water purification (Aqua Mira drops plus Katadyn Micropur tablets, note the amount of time required to purify)
Water bottles (local and cheap) and Camel-Bak 3L reservoir
Flavor powder for purified water (local and cheap, we bought 2 packs and had plenty extra)
Extra zip-loc bags
Ear plugs!!! (The tea house walls are like paper, you can literally hear your neighbor breathing, so unless you are the world’s deepest sleeper, you will want these basically every night)
Headlamps with extra batteries
Pad locks for duffel (local, ~$2)
Snacks (Snickers, chocolate, granola bars, etc.)
Neck Pillow (the kind you bring on airplanes. Jenni brought this not knowing if there’d be pillows at the tea houses, and there always were so she actually never used it. Sorry Sange!)
Camera with extra memory card plus cleaning pen and mini-tripod
We each brought a Kindle (+ charger) and iPhone (+ charger). It was so cold and I didn’t want to bother paying to charge it so I barely ended up using my Kindle, but Alan used his fairly often. If coming from home I’d probably have brought real, paper books. Charging is available at most teahouses for an hourly fee, but it’s not super consistent because much of the power as you reach higher elevations is solar and you can’t always count on the sun shining.
Cards (I bought a pack of cards on the way up, and they got very good mileage in the couple weeks we were up there. Pick your own means of entertainment, but cards are an excellent way to pass the time in the cold tea houses. I saw a few other groups with Uno sets and I have to admit, I was pretty jealous).
Contact lenses with spares
Soap (Sea to Summit Wilderness Wash)
Tissues (those little packs are great for carrying as you trek) and lots of toilet paper (not provided anywhere on the mountain!)
Sun block (for what little of your skin is actually exposed)
Chapstick with SPF
Hair ties and headbands
Quick-dry lightweight towels (local, ~$5)
Baby wipes (I’d read these come in really handy since you aren’t showering, but honestly it was so cold we didn’t even really use these. You just come to terms with your trekking filth)
Pee-tool (I think I was still too embarrassed to even admit owning this when I initially posted a packing list, but well…if a blog is not for over-sharing, then what is it for, eh? I bought a pee tool off Amazon because I used to not know how to pee standing up. There, I said it. This is basically an ergonomically designed funnel that allows me to pee like a man. Without removing my pants. It’s come in immensely helpful on various hiking and backpacking trips. It also was extremely clutch in India on a long drive with no toilet access. But I am very proud to say that over the course of four months in Southeast Asia, I learned how to squat pee. Anyone who knew me in college and ever attended an outdoor function with limited toilets has probably seen me hide between cars as my pants are fully removed and thrown over the top of one. Well, I’m a big girl now. And I trekked for two weeks in the Himalayas without using my pee tool. Go me.)
Diamox (altitude medication). We started taking this as early as Namche. A lot of people held out until later, but most people we met used it at least for some portion of their trek. I think it definitely helps. Jenni wound up feeling (mostly minor) effects from the altitude every day from Namche until she was back to Namche (that’s nine days of headaches, in case anyone was counting).
Other more customary medication like birth control, Advil, Immodium, etc.
Moleskin, bandaids, athletic tape
Boxer briefs (5 pair)
Hiking socks (3 pair) and liners (1 pair)
Hiking shoes. I hiked in Garmont gore-tex shoes that are sturdy but low-cut. I have done most big hikes in shoes rather than boots, and these worked fine on the trek. If you are carrying your own pack, you would more likely care about proper hiking boots. And my feet were a little cold at times, but I would probably wear the same shoes again.
Tops: mid-weight SmartWool zip-neck long underwear top (1); quick-dry shirts (2 short sleeve and 1 long sleeve); Patagonia fleece top (1); Arc’Teryx Atom LT Hoody (1); rain jacket; lightweight fleece top (local, ~$10 with bottom, and used for evenings); loaner down jacket used for early morning starts and some cold evenings
Bottoms: lightweight long underwear bottoms (1 pair); zip-off trekking pants (1 pair); rain pants; lightweight fleece bottom (local, ~$10 with top, and used for evenings); heavy REI fleece pants
Accessories: balaclava; winter hat (actually had 1 for day and 1 for night); undergloves; down mittens (bought locally for ~$5); down booties (local, ~$5); collapsible trekking poles; bandana (mainly as Kindle cover); day pack rain cover (local, ~$2)
Underwear (let’s start off getting real, shall we? I packed probably 14 pairs. I used 3. It’s far too cold to remove your pants up there. Don’t judge me til you’ve trekked at this altitude!)
Panty liners (so, if you’re not changing your undies, changing a panty liner each day is the next best thing)
Bras: 2 sports bras, 1 sleeping bra (I used this at lower elevations but again you stop changing as it gets higher and colder)
Hiking socks (3 pairs) and liners (1 pair)
Tops: quick dry short-sleeve t-shirts (2 but 1 would have probably sufficed); quick dry long-sleeve shirt (1); cotton/polyester long-sleeve hooded shirt (this came in so clutch because I used it to cover my face and head when it was cold but not bad enough to pull out the balaclava. I wore it almost every day as my second layer, over a short or long sleeve quick dry top); double thick fleece jacket (bought locally for ~$9); Patagonia down jacket; big puffy down jacket loaned by Himalayan Glacier (used this when we left before the sun was up, to start Cho La Pass and Kala Patthar, otherwise got limited use out of it)
Bottoms: running pants (used as my base layer every day after Gokyo); hiking pants (these were great on their own up until Gokyo, then I supplemented them with the running pants and fleece pants underneath and didn’t take off any of those three layers for the next week)
Long Underwear: lightweight fleece top and bottom (local, ~$10, generally used the top for evenings and as an extra layer when it was really cold. I used the fleece as part of my pants trifecta); second pair of fleece pants (used for sleeping and packed in my day pack for really cold days to fit over my other 3 pairs of pants and under my rain pants – only used once for that purpose)
Wet weather gear: rain pants and rain jacket (kept these in my daypack every day and used when it snowed); poncho (used one day when it snowed really hard, worked fabulously as a pack cover if not the least stylish outfit of all times)
Accessories: undergloves; down mittens (bought locally for ~$5); balaclava, winter hat; down booties (local, ~$5)
Other items we wished we had: Jenni would have killed for some clean clothes after her shower in Namche (the only things that weren’t dirty by that point were those millions of untouched pairs of undies). She also regretted her decision to forego the hairbrush. Had Alan come straight from home, he would have brought his gore-tex shell jacket and perhaps pants (both of which I ski in), probably gaiters, heavier leather hiking boots and heavier socks. I managed fine without any of this. Flip-flops or Crocs would be nice for using toilets while not trekking. We could not wear our down booties on the wet surfaces and putting on your hiking shoes/boots isn’t ideal, but it’s not so bad. And we saw others using those Starbucks Via instant coffee packets, which might be a nice touch if you’re pickier about your morning coffee.
We had such a homey experience in Kuala Lumpur. In fact, here we felt more like “real”people than we have in months. (Real people of course meaning those with things like “homes”and “jobs.” Things that are sounding more and more foreign to us ;) ) Life on the road is grand, we can’t complain. We absolutely love getting out and exploring the world (hence the actually doing it), but every once in a while we really just want to throw on a pair of sweatpants, order a pizza and watch a movie on Netflix while we sit on the couch all day. Our couch. This does not happen on the road. So we took a week to stay in Kuala Lumpur and rented a downtown studio through Airbnb, as a means to do two things: first, to catch up on blogging, bills, taxes and all things life and WiFi related after a packed trip through Southeast Asia and before an even more packed trip through Nepal and Central Asia. And second, as a way to feel kinda like normal people for a while. So our first day in town, we woke up, grabbed coffees, and walked to the supermarket! We were so giddy, walking around and gleefully filling our cart with cereal, milk, cheese, crackers and wine. I’m not even kidding; I was ecstatic doing the dishes, because for the first time in four months, I had dishes to do! And I could make my own dinner! Ah, it was wonderful.
Also contributing to the feeling of homey-ness, we had a fantastic evening with a friend of Alan’s mother who is living with her husband in KL. They invited us over for a dinner party, which was the first time we attended a home-cooked dinner party since before Thanksgiving. It was greatly appreciated and we loved getting the ex-pat’s insight to the area. It was one of those small world coincidences, which was even more small world feeling when another friend of hers – from Alan’s hometown! – visited a few days later and the four of us went out to explore KL together. Teeny tiny world, it is.
::possibly the most exciting thing that happened to us in KL… the laundry lady turned my undies into little panty packages::
Our friendly hosts guided us to the spot for our first experience being massaged by the blind, which was lovely and cheap, but more hilarious than anything. Alan’s masseuse was a chatty one, opining on such things as how Alan “looked” young, by which he meant 40s. (It’s OK, those with sight know he really looks 20-something ;) ). He may or may not have also compared Alan to Chuck Norris, among other entertaining tid-bits. We shared a room and Jenni could barely stop giggling listening to all this. Then Jenni’s masseuse took a phone call and never stopped massaging. Albeit one-handed, but she never skipped a beat. Impressive, if not entirely zen-like. Also, two blind men walked in while Jenni was changing. Now there’s a situation that causes a disconnect between your rational brain and impulses.
Afterwards we grabbed a solid Indian lunch at Anjappar in Brickfields. Always a good decision to eat Indian food in a restaurant where you are the only non-Indians present. We also learned a little bit about how to maneuver your way through the city via malls and air-conditioned walkways so as to minimize your time out sweating in the hot humid streets. While some of the trains are air-conditioned, the above-ground monorail was quite hot and overall we thought the public transit, as with much of the city, felt somewhat less modern than Singapore or Hong Kong (that said, it’s super cheap and fairly easy to navigate). This theme extended to the overall vibe of the city for us. While KL has a reputation for being very modern (the Petronas Towers were the tallest buildings in the world for a while, and they remain the tallest twin buildings), and it is very much a developed city with malls that rival (perhaps even put to shame) those you’d find in any western metropolis, after visiting Hong Kong and Singapore on this trip we were actually struck with the opposite impression. It is somewhat less modern than we’d expected. You do still see the mixing of old and new, finding hawker stalls a hop, skip and a jump away from the Ferragamo at the Suria Mall at the base of the Petronas Towers, and of course the decidedly less modern Chinatown and Little India neighborhoods nestled in amongst skyscrapers (Malaysia is predominantly a blend of Malay, Chinese and Indian).
Aside from these excursions spent with our new friends, we did little exploring (opting instead for aforementioned couch, cereal and wine and cheese), but we did check out the KL Hop-On Hop-Off bus to orient ourselves to the area, which conveniently stopped right nearby our apartment. It took us around to many of KL’s highlights, and we alighted at Central Market as well as Merdeka Square. And our last night we did manage to go out after dark to compare two bars known for their views of the Petronas Towers. The verdict: SkyBar at Traders Hotel trumps Marini’s on 57.
We were warned repeatedly about KL’s motorcycle bag snatchers, so take caution. You should also bring an umbrella (or buy a cheap one here) or raincoat as it poured (torrential downpours!) our first five days sometime between 4-6 pm, and our last day it began around 2 pm.
Note that KL Sentral and KLCC are different places. Our friends said that BFM is a great radio station. Time Out Kuala Lumpur is likely a good resource. When I lived in NY, it was my nightlife bible. It is worth noting here that we heard good things about Fraser’s Hill (and Shahzan Inn there), which is a couple hours away.
Transportation: The airport is quite a hub (and is the hub for Air Asia). We arrived after midnight and took a taxi which cost 112MYR, reflecting a 50% surcharge in effect from 12-6 am. It took about 45 minutes to KLCC. You can also take a train or bus (8MYR each) to KL Sentral (different from KLCC). And if you’re headed back from the city to the airport, you can check in (and check bags) at KL Sentral and then take a train. Our taxi from the city to the airport at 5 am cost 100MYR (you could probably find a cheaper one if you tried) and again took about 45 minutes.
Public transport is said to be very good here. We took the subway from KLCC to KL Sentral and it was painless and cheap at 1.60MYR each. We also took the monorail from KL Sentral back to Bukit Bintang which allowed us to see a bit more though it was crowded and hot (despite A/C). It cost 2.10MYR each. As with most places, you need your token to exit. I’m told taxis are cheap but often dishonest and may refuse to use the meter.
Accommodation: We stayed at an Airbnb apartment near KLCC. There are many luxury hotels and prices tend to be a lot lower than what you might find in other cities. We saw high-end chains for under $150/night. While we didn’t see the whole city, it seems like staying around KLCC or Bukit Bintang is probably a good bet, or possibly Bangsar though I’m less informed on this. I think there are more backpacker options in other neighborhoods. KLCC felt very safe, and there is a small running track in the park.
Food and Drinks: We went to the grocery store (Cold Storage at Suria KLCC) and ate many meals in our apartment. We dined one night at Healy Mac’s, a popular Irish bar on Jalan Ramlee. It was not bad, and the pint of Guinness was welcome (114MYR for salad, pizza, Guiness, sangria). Sushi dinner in the Isetan food court of Suria KLCC was pretty good and reasonable. Our Indian lunch at Anjappar (an international chain) in Brickfields was very good and inexpensive (about 12 MYR most mains).
Jalan Alor is a popular food street. There are tons of food courts in shopping centers and elsewhere. Lot 10 is said to be good. While perhaps pricier, the food court at Suria looked great. We heard Little Penang Kafe there is good. Old China Cafe is another eatery recommended to us.
We barely dabbled in the nightlife, but I’m told it is abundant in Kuala Lumpur. Our one (early) nighttime jaunt took us to Marini’s on 57 and SkyBar at Traders Hotel. We were a little underwhelmed by Marini’s bar area. There is a dress code and a wee bit of snootiness, and the music and vibe were so-so. The views of the Petronas Towers are nice, but you are so close that it’s hard to fully appreciate the grandeur. The restaurant and lounge may be nicer. We preferred SkyBar, which at least on Monday night played tunes like Marley, CCR and Clapton. We just missed that happy hour as it ended at 8 pm, but I think the bartender said Wednesday night is ladies night with free margaritas all night. Make a reservation or put your name down on arrival for one of the window seats, where you’ll find spot-on views of the towers plus the light/fountain show at Lake Symphony.
Changkat Bukit Bintang is lined with bars. There are a handful more on Jalan Ramlee right by our apartment. Zouk is a popular club. I think the Bangsar area has a bit of nightlife.
Activities: If you like to shop, you will not be bored. There are malls and stores everywhere. One day we took the Hop-On Hop-Off bus around the city. It is a nice way to orient yourself, though it can get pretty crowded (and if you’re standing and can’t easily look out the window, it’s less enjoyable). It costs 45MYR for 24 hours or 79MYR for 48 hours. You cannot board with a beverage, unless it’s bottled water (or maybe anything in a closed bottle?).
Central Market was formerly a functioning wet market, nowadays it houses varied craft shops and some F&B options. Kasturi Walk is a covered way alongside the Central Market, and I saw a sign advertising cultural performances every Monday-Saturday at 9 pm and a martial arts performance every Sunday at 9 pm. The other place we disembarked from the bus was Merdeka Square. It is here that the Malaysian flag was raised for the first time in 1957 to replace the Union Jack. The 95-meter flagpole at one end anchors an enormous flag. The attractive Sultan Abdul Samad building (housing government offices) is here.
I thought the blind massage was great, and cheap at 35MYR for 45 minutes. They also do reflexology.
Since we don’t have any particular insight to add on most attractions here, I’ll just list some out for you to consider. The bird and butterfly parks; National Mosque; Masjid Jamek; National Museum; Sin Sze Si Ya Temple; The Annexe Gallery; Brickfields (we still can’t tell if this is the same as Little India?); Chinatown and Petaling Street; Petronas Towers; KL Tower. Outside the city but I think reachable on public transportation are the Batu Caves.
If there is one place we’ve seen in all of Asia (so far) that we’d urge you to get your butts out to, and fast, it would be Coron. The beauty here is unparalleled (I mean, just stop reading here. Really. The pictures speak for themselves). And we got the feeling that it’s on the cusp of turning in the direction of more developed El Nido. Of all the places we visited in the Philippines, Coron was the most affected by Typhoon Yolanda, and perhaps it felt more deserted because of this. Or perhaps Coron is always less crowded, but either way it was much more pleasant from the tourist’s perspective. And we did not see any evidence of the damage impacting a visitor’s experience. Our boat tour guide accommodated us with an earlier start time so that we were the first to arrive at the beautiful Kayangan Lake, giving us private access to one of the most stunning places we’d ever seen. Even as the tour groups began catching up, it was never the sort of waiting in line we saw in El Nido.
::view from the hill separating Lake Kayangan from the ocean::
::balinsasayaw floating hut::
::balinsasayaw floating hut::
We stayed at Balinsasayaw Resort, and it seemed to have unrivaled access to the highlights of Coron. The resort is on Uson Island directly across from Coron Island, with a beautiful view of the stunning black (but really gray) limestone rock formations and a short five to ten minute bangka ride to the highlights of the biggest tourist attraction of the area. In fact, where most tours were cooking lunch on the boats while the tourists checked out their first destination, we were able to visit three, stop back at our resort to pick up our freshly cooked lunch, and enjoy it in one of the small floating huts atop the house reef as an added bonus to our already fantastic day tour. Balinsasayaw’s house reef, by the way, is superb. The fish are plentiful and diverse, as are the coral and the magnificent giant clams.
::view from our room::
::alan makes me play games against myself::
::crappy iphone in the dark photo, but finally caught one of those noisy tuko lizards outside our room!::
::starfish all over the shallow waters near balinsasayaw::
Swimming in the brackish water lakes on Coron Island was sublime. The water is so clear, and so still, it’s like snorkeling in the calmest ocean you can imagine. And the rock formations along the side of the lake are just unreal. They are so deep, and the visibility so good, that it engaged my fear of heights just floating above these. To have a fear of heights and the feeling of no gravity was one of the strangest sensations I’ve ever experienced. It felt like rock climbing without the risk. These aren’t corals, but limestone rocks, so you can grab onto them and climb as you swim around them. Hell, I even jumped off of one of them. It looks like an underwater castle (the inspiration for the little mermaid’s underwater castle?) or even a bit like the South Dakota Badlands if they were submerged. The fish are not nearly as diverse as those you’d find in the open ocean, but there are still plenty, including diminutive needle nose fish that swim at the surface and are so unaffected by your presence that they’ll practically touch your mask, and a plethora of catfish in Barracuda Lake. The eponymous fish are also present there at greater depths and it is a popular dive site, though we didn’t see any barracudas from our surface position. A few other inhabitants intrigued us, but none so much as the shrimp in Kayangan Lake that had a strong affinity for Alan’s feet, hanging on and tickling him at nearly every stop.
::reflection in Kayangan Lake::
::hard to believe this is real::
::looks like something you’d find on another planet, if they had water::
We next visited the Twin Lagoons, which are also brackish, and the mixing of salt and fresh water was made visible by the thermocline, which caused the water along the surface to blur like it was oily. In here we saw a large and terrifying jellyfish that was brown and yellowish, which our guide stealthily spotted and disturbed from his slumber on the rocks to prod him out for our viewing pleasure.
The Coron area islands are famous for wreck diving as there are a number of sunken Japanese ships from World War II. One, Skeleton Wreck, is shallow enough for snorkelers to view, and it’s so old that it’s now almost entirely covered in coral. While this area was more crowded, it was still far less so than most destinations we visited in El Nido (maybe there were 20 other people around).
We also stopped by the small Banol Beach, again with the most unreal beautiful turquoise waters and limestone rocks, and lastly we visited a natural saltwater hot spring (called Makinit) believed to be caused by a dormant volcano, and which lies at the edge of a mangrove and the ocean. The water was around 101 Fahrenheit, which is quite warm for a day in the hot sun, but it was surprisingly nice (for a few minutes).
::natural saltwater hot spring::
One morning Alan did two dives. The first was at CYC Beach/Reef where a few other boats were present, and the diving was good though not great. The second was at Twin Peaks Reef and this was more of a proper wall dive and with nobody present except me, the company diver and our boat man who decided to join us. The coral was great and the fish were very good, with huge numbers of smaller guys. I was a little sad not to visit any of the famous wrecks, but it was my fault for not being more pro-active and just letting the resort contact the one operator they usually work with.
While we didn’t see any of the other island resorts, we did walk around the town of Coron for a bit before heading to the airport. The town is bigger than we realized, but it doesn’t feel overrun with tourists. In fact it’s quite the opposite, though it’s not terribly exciting, so we’d definitely recommend staying at a more peaceful and picturesque island resort. The reasons one might stay in Coron town are its cheaper prices and better access to day tour and diving options (in terms of variety and price), but it’s no place to relax on a beach. It’s a fine area to walk around and explore and there are plenty of restaurants plus an outdoor market with fish, meats and veggies.
Getting to Coron is easy or difficult depending on where you’re coming from. You can fly into (or out of) the airport in Busuanga, which is about a 45-minute drive (through a landscape that was strangely much drier and a bit reminiscent of California and included a pass through a cattle ranch) from the town of Coron. Though you’ll likely fly through Manila first, this is quite convenient, plus you get welcomed by a live drum performance on arrival at the airport! How awesome is that? (We only flew out of Coron so didn’t get the welcome song, but did witness two flights land and enjoyed the musical distraction in the pre-boarding area). I do have to say though, especially traveling when the Malaysian flight is still missing, it was disconcerting to fly from an airport that had no metal detectors or baggage scanning machines! (Only human checks). Also, be prepared to have your luggage and your bodies weighed if you fly Cebu Pacific. Eat a small lunch beforehand… ;)
::traffic jam en route to the airport::
If you’re coming to Coron from the larger main island of Palawan as we did, from El Nido, it’s a bit less convenient. The only way up is via boat. On the day we left there were no bangkas going direct from El Nido town so we had to take a van up to San Fernando (through beautiful sparsely populated villages full of water buffalo, white birds and pigs) and then hop on a bangka from there. All in, it took close to twelve hours to get from point A to point B. Not that we’re complaining, it’s a beautiful ride, passing by countless tropical islands on the way, and we were extremely lucky to travel on a day with good weather and calm seas. We’re told that sometimes when the weather is poor, the ride can take almost twice as long and you might not arrive into town until after midnight!
::el nido to coron::
::arriving in coron::
::el nido to coron::
Coron is part of Palawan, and generally refers to a cluster of islands. But the names are a little confusing. The main island where the airport is located is Busuanga, and on the southern part of Busuanga Island one finds Coron town. Then there is Coron Island, which holds the most famous attractions and is inhabited only by the indigenous Tagbanwa people (I think). There is also Culion Island, which formerly was the world’s largest leper colony, and Calauit Island, which is a game preserve and wildlife sanctuary. The latter is home to endemic animals plus several African species including giraffes, zebras and gazelles. There are many other islands, some of which have luxury resorts.
There are at least a couple ATMs in town. The BPI branch had a 20,000PHP withdrawal limit (double where I went in Puerto Princesa).
Transportation: We covered much of this above. Our boat ride from El Nido cost 1800PHP each, including the van from El Nido town to San Fernando. It was on a bigger bangka with several covered, forward-facing seats. They included some chicken and rice for lunch, which was no gourmet meal but I found it fine. The boat stopped on the way at Linapacan Island, and the water color was spectacular. The boat arrived at the commercial pier in Coron town, and from there we took a short tricycle ride followed by a 15-minute smaller bangka ride to Balinsasayaw. At the airport in Busuanga (which is tiny with a dirt road loop, though it has a good little coffee shop inside), each passenger has to pay a 50PHP terminal fee.
Accommodation: We stayed at Balinsasayaw Resort. There are a handful of bungalows closer to the beach and some up on the hill. Ours was the latter, so we got to stretch our legs a tiny bit and had some commanding views of the ocean and Coron Island across the strait. The beach is fairly brown and rocky, but the house reef offers excellent snorkeling and the location is great (as described above). Our bungalow was basic but reasonably nice, with hot water and good AC while the power was on from 5:30 pm to 7:30 am. There is passable WiFi in the open air lobby.
Breakfast was included in our rate, and other meals are 300PHP each and a set menu. Portions were enormous. You can buy beer, wine or a couple bottles of liquor, but there are no cocktails. This must be remedied.
There are many lodging options in town. As noted above, these would have better access to tours and activities, but we preferred the ambiance of a beach and being away from a not all that charming town. There also are multiple high end island resorts like Two Seasons, Club Paradise and Huma Island. Some of these look pretty awesome, but they are much more expensive. And I think they are farther from the Coron Island attractions though they could be equidistant or closer to other items with appeal.
Food: We ate all our meals at the resort (described above) except for the last day when we had lunch in town at Coron Bistro. The pizza was quite good.
Activities: The most popular activities are diving and day tours of Coron Island and other islands and beaches. We booked our Coron Island tour at Balinsasayaw and it included Kayangan Lake, Barracuda Lake, Twin Lagoons, Skeleton Wreck, Banol Beach and Makinit Hot Springs. It was a private tour and included mask, snorkel, lunch and a great guide. At 2250PHP each, it was not cheap. I’m sure there are operators based in Coron town that are much cheaper, but as noted we got to Kayangan Lake before anybody else and this was one of our favorite days of the whole trip…so we’re not complaining! There are many other island/beach tours in the area.
Note that some of what we did was rather physically demanding. Not in terms of stamina, but e.g. the ladder we had to ascend and descend to enter the Twin Lagoons was steep with very narrow and slippery slats. It might not be appropriate for older folks.
I went diving with Coron Divers and have somewhat mixed feelings. On the one hand, I think the guy they sent was only SSI advanced certified. I think every other time I’ve dived, I’ve been led by a PADI certified dive master or instructor. Had I not just done three dives in Port Barton, and were these not fairly protected dive sites with minimal current, I might have been less comfortable with this. But on the other more positive hand, they picked me up early, switched our second site at my request, and my buddy was capable and attentive. I paid 2800PHP for the two dives with all equipment. Coron is famous for wreck diving, and if I return I would certainly plan on doing that.
We mentioned the former leper colony and the animal island above, I think you can visit both of these. There is also a hill near town called Mount Tapyas, and I think you can walk up a whole lot of stairs to the top.
Among the tourist destinations of Palawan, El Nido is perhaps the most well known. Many even say it is overdeveloped. We have to agree. But, to be fair, there is a distinction between the type of development in El Nido and that of say, Cancun. Sure, there are several shops in town selling Cadbury chocolate bars, sodas, and overpriced t-shirts and souvenirs, but they aren’t 7-11s. Sure, there are several bars and restaurants lining the beachfront, but they aren’t Señor Frog’s chains untz-ing untz-ing into the wee hours of the night, and I don’t think we saw a single building over five stories tall here.
::el nido town::
::view from caalan side::
::view from el nido town::
But what left us in the slightly underwhelmed category with El Nido is the fact that for all its development, it’s still a remarkably inconvenient travel destination. Getting there is no easy journey. Granted, we chose to stop first at Sabang and then at the decidedly less developed and even more inconvenient location of Port Barton, which made our travels significantly more diverted, but even for a traveler looking to spend a week in El Nido alone, it’s most likely you’ll have to fly to Manila, then to Puerto Princesa, then take a six hour drive, then a tricycle to your destination and perhaps, if you’re foolish as we were in staying at Golden Monkey Cottages, you’ll then have to walk 15 minutes with your luggage down the beach and through an unpaved path in the village. In fairness, though, if your budget permits you could take private vehicles and there are charter flights from Manila to El Nido (more on this below in Practical Info).
::nice spot to nap::
::puppies never disappoint::
::el nido sunsets::
From Port Barton we took an hour and a half jeepney ride. This is Asia, so of course it was packed to the brim, which means that the back is loaded, the roof is loaded with bags and people, and the driver even had a passenger to his left (in addition to the two on his right). And when it was time to pay, the conductor climbed down from the roof and reached in through the side to tap me on the back and ask for cash. The excitement did not end there, as we got dropped off at Roxas junction where we witnessed an animated arrest by some cops carrying humongous guns. Then we hopped on our bus to El Nido, which was surprisingly modern for a public bus (reclining seats and air con!). Though it still stopped many times to pick up people on the side of the street and wait for them to load bags of rice and other goods on board. Once we made it to El Nido we still had a tricycle ride to town and a 15 minute walk down a dirt path to get to our hotel.
::big pimpin’ jeepney::
::guess which one is the driver::
As with Sabang and Port Barton, there is no ATM to be found throughout the entire town. In fact, if you want to get cash out you have a two-hour window and a roughly $200 equivalent maximum, charged against your credit card plus a 6% fee. And you still receive that Filipino level of service (meaning the worst of any country we’ve visited). These inconveniences are not fatal flaws, but for all the effort it takes to travel here you’d expect to find an untainted and remote-feeling island paradise, and El Nido is much less of that than Coron and especially Port Barton. To be sure, it is beautiful. But it is also fairly polluted, which really distracts from the enjoyment, at least for us. Stepping over pieces of trash and cigarette butts on the beach is far from ideal. It’s such a shame to see these beautiful places being destroyed by litter. Maybe we’re being a bit harsh here, and El Nido does have some amazing scenery. Perhaps if we lower your expectations then you’ll be even more impressed :).
The island hopping tour allowed us to see the highlights of El Nido, and it is most definitely worth it. Our tour took us to a white sand beach (fairly disappointing given that it was being built up and had construction and barbed wire fencing all along it), two lagoons (absolutely incredible), a smaller beach for lunch, and a snorkel stop at the coral reefs outside the “Big Lagoon” (really solid, not tons of fish but impressive variety and stunning iridescent almost kaleidoscopic looking giant clams).
While the sights are stunning, again it does not feel very remote. It reminded us a bit of Koh Phi Phi, with the masses of tourists. In fact, we sat idled for about 15 minutes waiting for boats to exit the “Big Lagoon” before our bangka could even fit in. But it was worth the wait, what a beautiful place. We’re told that El Nido Resorts holds wedding ceremonies inside this lagoon, on a big floating platform that they set up. Now that would be cool. Unmarried friends, please consider this option ;). I believe guests of the El Nido Resort (at least the Miniloc Island property) can also kayak here at times when it would be less crowded, which would be lovely. The “Small Lagoon” is only accessible by kayak or swimming in through a small opening so we unfortunately didn’t bring the camera, but what an incredible spot. The steep rock walls are beautiful to begin with, but then to realize you’re swimming through a gigantic saltwater pool, secluded from the outside world, ahh, just divine.
::waiting for our turn::
We also spotted some flying fish on the ride back. We’d never seen these fish in action before, it’s absolutely mind-blowing to watch them literally fly 50-100 yards across the water!
::heading back to el nido town::
Alan bravely tried the Filipino delicacy, balut, a hard boiled fertilized duck egg. In other words, he ate duck fetus…with a bit of salt and vinegar sauce. Others had told us it tastes like a cross between a chicken egg and liver. Alan agreed. Jenni couldn’t be bothered to find out what baby duck feathers taste like.
::alan eating duck fetus::
There is a “hike” in town that allegedly affords great views of the El Nido Bay. I say hike in quotation marks, because it is more of a climb than a hike. While most attempt this with a guide, he offers no advice other than to wear sneakers, and he comes without any equipment. The very first ten feet up were almost enough to make Jenni bow out. The rocks are sharp and you must use both hands and feet to scale up these formations. After a mild panic, Jenni was able to brave it and we ventured on for a while, climbing up pointy limestone boulders. At one difficult spot that had a large and deep crevice Jenni started to panic again. “Is this the worst?” we asked our guide. “No, this part is easy. The top is like that,” he says as he points to a vertical wall of rock. “For about ten or fifteen meters.” That was my cue to go. I’m not sure I could make that climb without a fear of heights, let alone without a helmet, ropes or spotter. Alan and guide briefly considered going on without me before we realized that it would mean I’d have to sit there and wait for around an hour where the mosquitos were literally swarming. One malaria scare was enough for me, thank you. We admitted defeat and headed for flatter land.
The rational man’s take, revisited: I agree with Jenni. She bears no blame for calling it off. We did a bunch of class 3 scrambling, and based on what we saw and our guide said, the trail was turning into class 4 climbing, too. I have minimal experience, and Jenni has none. Class 4 climbing for the inexperienced with no ropes or helmets and no decent access to medical care seems kind of foolish. The ability to distinguish between rational and irrational fear is essential to living an adventure-filled life without being reckless. While I am highly confident we could have made it to the top without injury, that does not mean we should have tried.
On our last day in town we hired a tricycle for the ride over to Corong Corong to visit the beach at Las Cabañas. We kicked ourselves for not choosing a hotel over on this side of town. While there is little going on here (we only saw one bar/restaurant plus a couple small resorts), the beach is great for swimming (unlike the beach in the town of El Nido or near where we stayed further northeast from El Nido town), the views are great, and the sunsets are superior (no west-facing open ocean views in El Nido Bay). We joined up with some friends we’d met on our boat tour and grabbed piña coladas to watch the sun sink, and then we all shared a “you-point-we-cook” seafood dinner and lots of San Mig Lights back in town. It was a solid close to our time in El Nido, and we even enjoyed a romantic walk back (with great stars!) when the power in the entire town went out.
“El Nido” refers to an area far larger than the main town and immediate surroundings. We considered staying one place in El Nido that is about an hour drive from the town, so be careful when you book. The main town has lots of smallish hotels, bars and restaurants on the beach and a block or two off the beach. In general, it seemed more crowded and developed towards the southwest part of the beach (nearer the dock) and less crowded towards the northeast (say, past Marina Garden Beach Resort). The town beach is not great for swimming (though it is swimmable).
Further to the northeast is the Caalan Beach area, though we didn’t really see any beach here. There are several accommodations here, and we stayed at Golden Monkey Cottages (more below). We would advise against staying in this area because it is less convenient but without the benefit of peace and quiet (given the roosters, dogs, lizards and neighbors). It took us about 25 minutes to walk to the far end of town.
To the southwest of town is the Corong Corong area. As noted above, the beach and views are nice here. Note, though, that you can walk between town and Caalan Beach but you need to take a tricycle to get between town and Corong Corong. We would either stay in town if you want some nightlife and proximity to F&B options plus tour operators, or stay in Corong Corong if you want a prettier setting and a nicer beach. Or stay at one of the El Nido Resorts offshore islands, if that is in your budget. To visit Corong Corong for the day, ask a tricycle to take you to Las Cabañas. They will drop you off a few km from town and then it’s a five-minute walk to the beach.
There are no ATMs in El Nido but you can swipe a credit card (with a 6% fee) from 2-4 pm at the Petron petrol station near the dock. Art Cafe no longer offers this service, but they will change foreign cash and were offering a decent rate. Art Cafe also accepts credit cards for no extra fee, as does their downstairs shop, which carries all sorts of odds and ends you might need.
Transportation: We came from Port Barton on a jeepney/bus combo. We described this a bit above, but here are some additional details. The jeepney left at 8 am (sort of). We sat near the front of the jeepney and the windshield was open, making sunglasses very helpful. And you might want a handkerchief for the dust. It arrived to Roxas terminal a little before 10 am, and there we transferred to a RORO public bus, which left several minutes later. This but stopped in Taytay at 11:30 am for ~20 minutes where food and toilets were available. The bus arrived in El Nido at 1:30 pm. The El Nido terminal is 1-2km from town (I think), and several tricycles are there waiting with a pretty standard fare of 50PHP to town. The jeepney cost 150PHP each and the bus cost 200PHP each. Overall, the journey was fairly painless if windy and a little bumpy.
When inquiring in Port Barton we were told of a few other options. Subject to weather, you can take a bangka. I think it costs ~6000PHP for the boat or 1500PHP each if you can find some others. We did not try to bargain, but the private van quotes we got were 6000PHP. If you can find other passengers and bargain you could probably pay <1000PHP each. We also heard that sometimes after the jeepney drops you at Roxas terminal, you can catch a van that is more comfortable and goes straight to El Nido for 350PHP each.
From Puerto Princesa or Sabang you could take the Lexus van straight to El Nido. Part of the difficulty of getting around Palawan is the main road runs up the east coast but there is nothing along the west coast, so getting to Sabang or Port Barton and sort of El Nido requires you to turn off the main road for a while. And then for onward travel, you usually need to get back on that track for a transfer.
There is a small airport in El Nido that accommodates charter flights on ITI. If you were to come here to stay at one of the El Nido Resorts properties, there is a good chance you’d arrive by plane. Art Cafe was advertising one-way flights between Manila and El Nido for ~5000PHP. I would guess that in the coming years there will be regular commercial flights into El Nido.
For onward travel to Coron, we took a bangka that actually left from San Fernando, about an hour and a quarter drive from El Nido town (the trip cost 1800PHP each). Different boats make the trip on different days and often these leave from El Nido town. The trip is weather dependent. We will provide some more detail on this trip in our upcoming Coron post.
Accommodation: We stayed at Golden Monkey Cottages but do not recommend it. The place itself was decent but not great value, and the location (Caalan Beach) is undesirable. It has nice views of Cadlao Island, but otherwise offers little vs. El Nido town or Corong Corong. Cadlao Resort is a nicer property with a pool in the same area, but we probably wouldn’t stay there for $150+ with no beach. If you decide anyway to stay in the Caalan section, bring a headlamp for walking home at night. As we wrote above, we would stay in town or Corong Corong, or on an offshore island.
We had looked to stay at Marina Garden in town but it was booked. Our friends liked Rico’s Cottages. On the beach in Corong Corong, Orange Pearl seems well located and Las Cabañas even more so. The latter is on a point, so maybe a touch farther from the best part of the beach but quieter and with better views. If you stay in Corong Corong, you might inquire e.g. whether your hotel can arrange island-hopping tours that begin and end there so you don’t have to make the return trip into town.
El Nido Resorts owns (or operates?) a few offshore island properties. I haven’t done full research, but I think we saw Miniloc Island (on our island hopping tour), which looked nice, but maybe a little dated. But as mentioned above it may offer the best access to spectacular sites at times when few other tourists are around. I think Pangalusian Island may be their nicest property.
Food and Drinks: Options are abundant, and many places offer some kind of happy hour in the afternoon. We had drinks at Sea Slugs (no happy hour, but stiff drinks) and dinner at Atmosphere one night. It was decent. Happy hour drinks at Mezzanine were pretty good. Dinner at Doy’s was enjoyable for fresh seafood. Plus the table next to us shared their lanzones, a small fruit that tastes (and looks) kind of like a cross between a lychee and an orange. We dined at Blue Azul a couple blocks off the beach. They advertise chicken shawarma, which is just grilled chicken and there is no tahini, and atmosphere is lacking. But the falafel sandwich was large and tasty. Our lunch at Art Cafe was pretty good and our breakfast there was excellent, and they take credit cards. It is off the beach but some tables have pretty good views. There was a nice little beach bar scene at Corong Corong (near the end of the path from the road to the beach when you ask to be taken to Las Cabañas).
And of course, there is balut. Vendors were walking around the town and beach selling these scrumptious fertilized duck eggs for 20PHP. Man up.
Activities: Island hopping seems to be the primary activity. Countless operators in town offer the same four choices, labeled A-D and priced from 1200PHP to ~1600PHP including lunch. I’m not sure whether all include mask and snorkel, so check on that. We booked Tour A through the tour desk located at Aplaya (on the beach, nearer the dock). The scenery was amazing, though it was fairly crowded out there. While at the lagoons we saw some folks kayaking and then saw that Art Cafe was advertising tour options that included kayaks for a bit more money. Some people do multiple island hopping tours over multiple days.
Another activity is to “hike” Taraw Mountain. We discussed this above. The views of the bay and islands from the top are likely wonderful, so you might try it if you have any climbing experience or just a different risk tolerance. You need a guide to find the trail. Art Cafe was offering a guide for 350PHP each (for two), we found someone for 500PHP total.
You can rent a kayak and paddle out to Cadlao Island or beyond, but be careful out on the ocean if you’re not very experienced. There are also day trips to farther away beaches (Nacpan seems most popular) and hikes to waterfalls. There are many dive shops here, and my dive master in Port Barton said the diving is good once you get outside the bay. I’m not sure how narrowly she is defining “the bay.”