Category Archives: Namibia


Our last stop in Namibia was Okonjima, home to The AfriCat Foundation. We only spent one night here, but we sincerely wished we had two (or more!). It was a fantastic and extraordinarily interactive wildlife experience. This property is different than most safari camps in that many of the animals living there are semi-wild, since The AfriCat Foundation works to rehabilitate wild cats (and wild dogs). Because the leopards, cheetahs, and dogs in the park are tagged, sightings are more or less guaranteed. The guides carry tracking devices that beep when in close proximity to the receptor on the animals’ collar.

And the smaller game living right on the campgrounds are much more accustomed to human contact. They even permit (and encourage) feeding of the birds and warthogs, by providing a jar of seeds in your room to share with them. Fair warning though, there is no wall, window or screen separating your room from the great outdoors. Well, there can be, but the canvas siding is rolled up for your arrival. Also, it is a flap of canvas, so… And hence your first impression is that of no separation between you and the animals.

While (somewhat surprisingly) no animals tried to come through the gigantic open walkway into our room, we did have one hornbill that scared the bejeebies out of me by repeatedly jumping into our actual glass window, and Alan came dangerously close to getting head-butted by a warthog that grew jealous of Alan’s feeding his rivals.

We had the opportunity to go out on two game drives during our stay at Okonjima. Because you go out with a tracker device to try and spot one of the specific monitored animals, each game drive is focused on one of those four species: leopards, cheetahs, hyenas or wild dogs. On our first drive, we chose to search for the leopards. We saw several in Botswana, but they are so beautiful one can never really tire of admiring these precious cats. In not too long we spotted one and followed her down the dry riverbed for a ways. Maybe the most exquisite animal, I think.

We said goodbye to the leopard and headed to a beautiful spot for sundowners. En route we spotted several baboons, a hare, some giraffes, and warthogs. Cats and dogs aren’t the only game to be seen!

We were treated to a stunning sunset as we sipped our G&T’s, and as we imbibed we even spotted a dassie rat (a very rare sighting) that chose to join us for happy hour!

The drive closed with a bang as we passed the most adorable baby jackals on our way home! Oh god, the urge to cuddle was almost irresistible. Of course, we knew the mother had to be somewhere near, so snuggling was not an option.

At night, after dinner, we went out for a second excursion to visit what Okonjima calls the night hide. The jeep takes you back through the Jurassic Park-style gates (the lodging is outside the massive fenced area where the predators live) and then you hop out and walk a bit with your flashlights into this little protective enclosure with a small opening for viewing. On the other side, the guide drops a bunch of food scraps and lo and behold, out come these badass little animals: porcupines and honey badgers! Things are seriously hard-core. And honey badgers, as anyone with internet access knows, just don’t care. We were even lucky enough to spot a brown hyena on the drive home when our headlights caught the glow of its eyes. Too dark for pictures though, and bummer because it was our first and only brown hyena sighting on the trip.

And here’s a little video showing the porcupine putting those quills to action.

For our final drive the next morning, we went out in search of the cheetahs. It was starting to look futile as we neared the end of the property with no beeps from the tracking device. But soon enough, we parked the jeep, and WALKED off in the direction of some identified cheetah activity. Crazy right? I mean, they are only semi-wild cheetahs, but they are still wild enough to require that Rohan (the fantastic resident guide) pack a 9mm and Jimmy (our Namibia guide) carry this big old stick in case of attack. So the fear factor really does get your adrenaline going.

We were maybe 15 feet away from these beautiful creatures. I think we were most surprised by how long and slender they are. Their bodies are like slinkies.

Of course, the cats are not alone. There are many wild animals roaming the property, and we saw lots during the course of our stay. The variety of antelopes here was the greatest out of all our stops in Africa: eland, impala, kudu, oryx (including the tiniest baby oryx!), duiker, steenbok, and red hartebeest.

And just as we were grabbing our bags to leave, we spotted an elephant shrew hanging out in a termite mound just outside of our room! Some epic animal sightings here at Okonjima, that is for sure. We were sad to leave this camp and sad to say goodbye to Namibia, but ready for the final nation of our round-the-world voyage: South Africa!

Practical Info

Okonjima is a 55k acre private game reserve and home to The AfriCat Foundation, which rehabilitates cheetahs, wild dogs, hyenas and leopards.

To recap our Namibia itinerary: we spent a transit night in Windhoek; then we drove southwest to the Sossusvlei area and stayed two nights at Hoodia Desert Lodge; then we drove northwest to Swakopmund and stayed two nights at Organic Square Guesthouse; then we drove north to Damaraland and stayed two nights at Doro !Nawas; then we drove east to Okonjima where we stayed one night before departing the next day via Windhoek. With the benefit of hindsight we might have altered this slightly. Driving times may be long and traveling at night is not advised (mainly for the risk of hitting animals), so you may need to spend two nights somewhere to have just one day. That said, we would probably have spent one night in Swakopmund and two at Okonjima, and we might have visited Etosha National Park to top up our wild safari bucket.

Transportation: We drove from Doro !Nawas, I think passing Khorixas, Outjo and maybe Otjiwarongo. The road was dirt at times and paved at others. We departed for Windhoek and our international flights onward: Mom and Rich to Johannesburg, we to Cape Town.

Accommodation: Much like most places we’ve stayed in Botswana and Namibia, the setup here is a central “lodge” area that is covered and open-sided where you gather, eat meals, etc. A small but nice pool is there. Then there are several very spacious cabins set apart from each other. At least this is the case in the Bush Camp, where we stayed. One of the awesome things about this place is there are animals hanging out nearby. There were a couple warthogs right by the main area, and our cabin had rolled up front windows open to warthogs, guinea fowl and some others within a few feet of us. Plus, of course, the insane hornbill who kept jumping into our side glass window. There is no WiFi in the rooms, but it works quite well in the main area.

Food and Drinks: We ate all our meals at the lodge, and the food was very good. At least for our package, certain wine was included but generally alcohol was not.

Activities: We participated in three great activities. First was leopard tracking, and we got quite a bit of reasonably up close time with Shanti, a female leopard. After dinner that night, we visited the night hide. The guide laid out some food scraps and immediately three porcupines and two honey badgers joined us. Very cool. The next morning we did cheetah tracking, and for these somewhat smaller and less dangerous cats (vs. leopards or of course lions) we actually got out of the vehicle and walked over to them. We stood/kneeled about 15 feet away from Spud and Coco Chanel (bro and sis) plus their buddy Bones. Super neat.

We did not have enough time to try wild dog or hyena tracking, nor to visit The AfriCat Foundation education center.

October 24-25, 2014 (Friday-Saturday)

Doro !Nawas

We left the dunes of Sossusvlei and Swakopmund, but we were still surrounded by a lot of sand, a lot of beauty, and it was still really dry. Doro !Nawas Camp in Damaraland is another middle-of-nowhere, stunning Namibian property.

The drive up took us through mile after mile of wide-open expanses. The only signs of human life were the tiny communities of huts constructed from what looks like the remains of the recycle bin: pieces of tin, stone, brick, wood, plastic, some combination of the above.

Doro !Nawas itself sits upon the dry Aba-Huab River Valley, within the Doro !Nawas Conservancy in central Damaraland. Its location affords stunning views of the mountains and red sandstone cliffs.

And you might notice the exclamation point in Dora !Nawas. It is, in fact, a click language. The staff at the camp would read the menu each night in English and in the local click language (I think it’s called Khoekhoe?) and it is seriously impressive. I wish I could make all those click sounds! Here’s a little video, if you’re interested:

And after dinner the staff would sing and dance. It was good fun. We were particularly fond of the Amarula dance (and the Amurula! – a delicious liqueur made from the marula fruit that grows in Africa).

A short drive from Doro !Nawas is Twyfelfontein, which translates to doubtful spring. This area is full of ancient petroglyphs. There are lots of animals depicted, and our guide explained that these were used for education (e.g. to teach the young about footprints of animals to hunt, and those to run away from).

There are also some beautiful rock formations, including these “Organ Pipes.”

But the highlight of this expedition was the epic sundowner spot. Our guide pulled out a veritable spread, complete with biltong, nuts, crackers and the obligatory G&T’s. So many beautiful sunsets in Africa. And because it gets very chilly there as the sun goes down, they have fleece-lined ponchos on hand! Fleece-lined ponchos! Keep your eyes open for fleece-lined ponchos as the next Snuggie. Calling it.

Also, I sincerely wish I had video or at least photos, but we finally saw springboks in action. It’s clear to us now how they got their name. They literally spring across fields – apparently in an effort to convince predators that they’re super fit and hard to catch or something. And the best part? This move is called pronking.

Alan and I woke early one morning to head out with Jimmy in search of the elusive rhinoceros. The 4:30 am wake up call was a little brutal, but when we turned off the road and a few minutes later saw a large group of desert-adapted elephants, we knew it had been worth it.

Our luck continued on the drive as we spotted some kudu, springboks, oryx, Hartmann’s mountain zebras, and steenbok.

Jimmy even made an epic spot of a spotted hyena in the distance.

And then some jackals! Not to mention the scrub hare we saw on the drive in.

And then we thought our luck was going to culminate in some really big sightings when Jimmy spotted lion prints, rhino poop and flattened euphorbia bushes – evidence that a rhino had trampled them recently. We traced the tracks for what felt like miles and certainly hours. We were impressed with Jimmy’s tracking skills, but the rhinos and the lion were sneaky that morning. Despite our best efforts, they eluded us. Though we did learn a fun fact about rhinos. You may have heard of black rhinos and white rhinos. These distinctions have nothing to do with their color. Rather, it is the shape of their mouths. The misleading “white” designation derives from the Afrikaans word “weid,” which describes the flat, wide lip of “white” rhinos which is better adapted to grazing vs. the pointed lip black rhinos use to pick fruit and leaves off branches and twigs.

In the hopes we might spot some, we kept driving on, deeper into the wilderness, and on a seriously bumpy road. The landscape was absolutely spectacular, and the geodes lying all around sparkled beautifully in the sun.

To make up for the lack of a rhino sighting, some giraffes appeared on the side of the road as we began heading back to camp. All in all a solid day of game viewing in an area not that geared towards safaris.

Practical Info

Damaraland is best known for the collection of San rock engravings at Twyfelfontein. The region’s scenery is gorgeous and reminiscent of the Southwestern US. Other attractions include desert-adapted elephants, possible black rhino sightings, assorted other wildlife and terrific stargazing.

Note that we were booked at Doro !Nawas on a dinner, bed and breakfast basis. If you book on a fully inclusive basis, then alcoholic beverages and laundry service would be included.

Transportation: We drove from Swakopmund, which took at least a few hours and was largely on unpaved roads. We departed for Okonjima.

Accommodation: We stayed at Doro !Nawas, which is a Wilderness Safaris property. The setting is beautiful, offering vast views of the landscape and epic stargazing. The main building has cozy lounge spaces and all meals are taken there (including lunch on the deck). The infinity pool is small but refreshing. The thatched roof cabins are enormous and nicely appointed. There is no WiFi, though there is a computer in the lodge area that works fine for email.

Food and Drinks: We ate all our meals at the lodge. The food was fine, but not quite as good as many other places we’ve stayed thus far in Africa. The after dinner singing and dancing, however, was delightful.

Activities: A visit to Twyfelfontein is pretty much mandatory. We also stopped to observe the Organ Pipes and Burnt Mountain, which frankly were a bit underwhelming. I think there are some hikes in the area. It was neat to see desert-adapted elephants and other animals.

October 22-24, 2014 (Wednesday-Friday)


Our next stop in Namibia had us driving through even more barren land towards the coast. The landscape got downright otherworldly at points.

We spotted the occasional wildlife, including desert zebras in the distance, some ostriches and a cool hawk-like bird.

Among the strange things encountered on our drives in and out of Swakopmund was a shipwreck…

…and weirder still, the Free Republic of Wlotzkasbaken, a cluster of homes not connected to government systems. Thus, their water is supplied by personal water tanks on the roofs, and their power from generators. Our guide thinks it might be entirely inhabited by white people. What a weird little commune.

And our drive in even took us across the Tropic of Capricorn!

The town of Swakopmund itself is maybe not as exciting as the drives in and out, though it did provide a lovely place for us to do some souvenir shopping and enjoy some fresh seafood (who knew we’d be eating delicious raw oysters in Namibia?). Also, it was much, much cooler – an extremely welcome respite from the heat we’d been enduring so far in Africa.

But the big attraction in Swakopmund seems to be the adventure sports. So, naturally, we set off to check them out. (Alan and I, that is, while Ronnie and Rich enjoyed a more tame boat cruise.) First up was some fun in the sand dunes. Not that adventurous, and figuring our skiing skills might not translate so easily to sand boarding, we opted for the lie down boarding, which is pretty much like sledding, but instead of quickly going down a snowy hill, you fly down a giant sand dune at speeds of up to 72 km/h. (!!!!!!!!!) I know, because they whipped out a speed gun (like the ones that cops use) and tested our speeds and that was Alan’s fastest. That is fast, people. Very fast. Even with the “brakes” (read: dragging my feet in the sand in a semi-futile attempt to control my velocity), I reached a max of 54 km/h. To which our guide responded, “dude, why did you go so slow?” Ha! I may be adventurous, but I am still afraid of nearly everything in the world, so I have my limits.

The boards are pretty much just a piece of laminate board, super smooth on one side. You lie down on it, lift up the front, and WHEEEE! SO MUCH FUN! Not to mention the view of the landscape up there is awesome. Plus, you get a nice workout from climbing up the dunes in between runs.

To top off our day of desert adventure, we tried sand quad-biking. Um, horrible. Maybe I’m scarred from the memory of the time my brother and I rode a quad into a tree as little kids in Virginia, but I could not do it. I totally freaked out. One of the guides stayed behind with me to try to help me figure it out, but I got stuck going up hills that were maybe two feet high, despite his constant encouragement that “it’s so easy, it’s so easy. You just, go…” I wound up ditching my bike in the middle of the desert and riding on the back of his, and it wasn’t that much better. On the bright side, Alan loved it! He tore up those dunes like a sand badass.

Practical Info

Swakopmund is a coastal town with a fair amount of German colonial architecture and many German-speaking residents and visitors. It is the adventure capital of Namibia. There is skydiving, sand-boarding, quad-biking, surfing and more. Plus tamer options like boat trips to view dolphins, birds, a seal colony, etc.

Transportation: We drove from Hoodia Desert Lodge/Sossusvlei via Kuiseb Pass, and we stopped to view Kuiseb Canyon where our guide told us about the two German geologists who hid here during World War II. There is a book and a film called The Sheltering Desert that tells their story. We continued towards the coast and stopped for lunch in Walvis Bay before arriving in Swakopmund. You would not need a car to get around the central part of town, and I believe many of the activity vendors offer free pick-up and drop-off. There is also an airport and a train line. We departed for Doro Nawas/Damaraland, stopping at a shipwreck and for petrol in Uis.

Accommodation: We stayed at Organic Square Guesthouse, which is a few blocks outside the center of town. Decor is modern with concrete floors and such. Breakfast was fine though mostly cold options.

Food and Drinks: We had nice dinners at Tug (in town) and The Wreck (outside town), and we preferred the latter. Thus began our streak of being impressed by the seafood in Namibia (and later South Africa). Calamari and oysters were consistently excellent, and I enjoyed kingklip many times. We did not venture out for nightlife, but a friend mentioned Napolitana.

Activities: Jenni and I did a combo day of sand-boarding and quad-biking. I believe the name of the sand-boarding operation is Alter-Action. Quad-biking was at Desert Explorers. The cost for the package was NAD650/person, which included sand-boarding, a video thereof, an hour on the quad bikes, transportation and lunch. I found this to be excellent value.

My mom and Rich enjoyed their boat trip, which I think included onboard champagne and oysters. The town has plenty of craft shops, cafes, etc. and is nice to walk around. There is an outdoor, informal craft market by the beach. Skydiving is popular here. The aquarium in town is said to be nice. There is also Kristall Galerie, which holds some special crystal formations.

October 20-22, 2014 (Monday-Wednesday)


After a rather indirect travel day from Camp Okavango in Botswana via South Africa and into Namibia (including a semi-lost, but later found, piece of luggage (Rich’s) for the first and only time on our year and a half of travels!) we found ourselves in Windhoek preparing to drive to the dunes of Sossusvlei.

The ride from the capital was beautiful. Just a few miles outside of the city we began to see baboons on the roadside, and we eventually made it to the Spreetshoogte Pass, which offered spectacular views of the Namib Desert. Apparently for those adventurous enough, you can camp here. I’d recommend it for one seeking extreme desert isolation.

To my delight, there were also kitschy roadside attractions on the way to Sossusvlei, and we stopped for lunch in the town of Solitaire (population: tiny). This itty-bitty metropolis features a gas station, restaurant, bakery and general store – and the only ones of those for many, many miles around. We stopped for all of the above amenities, including an oryx burger and a slice of their famous apple pie.

We also noticed a few massive sociable weaver nests on the acacia trees. These nests hold up to 300 birds! Sociable is right.

Our final stop on our way into the region was a quick visit to the Sesriem Canyon for a walk around the composite rocks striated from the impact of a long-gone river.

When we finally made it to Hoodia Desert Lodge, we were elated to see how beautiful it was. And the best part – it had air conditioning! But seriously, this is an incredibly gorgeous property with a cozy indoor common area full of leather couches, stunning views of the surrounding mountains and the (then dry) Tsauchab River, and the rooms are luxurious with great outdoor showers.

A quick drive from the lodge brings you to the Sesriem Gate, entrance to Namib-Naukluft National Park and its world famous red sand-dunes of Sossusvlei. We arrived early, as the sun was rising, and the views were incredible.

As you make your way down the long road towards the dunes you see hot air balloon riders floating above the red sands.

We also spotted a bit of wildlife, including some wild ostrich and oryx, Namibia’s national animal, with its huge straight horns.

The dunes, though, take center stage here. They are just spectacular.

Dune 45 is supposedly the most photographed, and it’s easy to see why. This magnificent dune catches the shadows in an artful way.

Bid Daddy, perhaps not surprisingly given the name, is the tallest, stretching up to 325 meters and dwarfing the surrounding dunes. We climbed up to the top of it. It’s a hot, grueling, two-steps-forward-one-step-back walk.

But the reward at the top…

360° views of nothin’ but sand, and down below you can see Deadvlei where we headed afterwards.

This video helps to give some perspective. Look for the people at the bottom of Deadvlei when the camera zooms in below.

But the best part of the trek: going down! While it took over an hour to hike up, we flew down in about 10 minutes. And wee!

Deadvlei is a dried riverbed made of clay, surrounded by Big Daddy and other dunes, and dotted with a forest of old, dead trees.

They have been stagnant for years, decomposition halted because the air is so dry. Deadvlei has not seen rain in a long time.

On our way out we saw a black-backed jackal wandering around the parking lot and walking right up to people eating. Scavengers have it easy when humans come along I suppose.

Practical Info

We traveled in Namibia with my mom and Rich on a private guided tour with Ultimate Safaris. Some folks travel independently to Namibia. We considered a self-drive trip, which means a travel agent would have made all the bookings and provided us with detailed maps and information and a 4WD rental. This does seem manageable, but I am happy we went with a guide. Our itinerary required a lot of driving on bumpy roads, we got a flat tire, and it was nice not to have to worry about getting around and booking activities etc. Later, Jenni and I traveled around South Africa on our own in a rental car, and that was very easy and pleasant.

Our guide Jimmy was very knowledgable on his country’s history, culture, wildlife and geography. Namibia is famed for its vast desert landscapes, sand dunes, animals, starry skies and more.

Perhaps most famous of those desert landscapes and sand dunes is Sossusvlei, which is the name of a specific salt and clay pan but often refers more generally to the Namib-Naukluft National Park and its characteristic large red dunes.

The currency is the Namibian Dollar, and at time of travel the exchange rate was ~ 1 USD = 11 NAD. South African Rand are accepted throughout Namibia (the rate is identical), but not vice versa.

Transportation: We arrived to Windhoek on a South African Airways flight from Johannesburg (having come from Camp Okavango in Botswana earlier in the day). The drive from the airport into the city takes 30-45 minutes. Jimmy was our guide and driver. Our vehicle was a Toyota Land Cruiser. Some ways are paved, but mostly in Namibia we were on reasonably smooth dirt roads. Pretty much everyone has a jeep or pickup truck or the like in this country.

We drove from Windhoek to Sossusvlei via the Spreetshoogte Pass, stopping in Solitaire and visiting Sesriem Canyon before arriving at our lodge. It was a fairly short drive (maybe 15-20 minutes) from the lodge to Sesriem Gate, and from there the paved road runs 60 km toward Sossusvlei (the pan). Where the pavement ends, one may either take a shuttle or drive the remaining 5 km through deep sand if one has the proper vehicle.

Accommodation: In Sossusvlei we stayed at Hoodia Desert Lodge. The property is stunning with stylish decor befitting owner Thomas’ prior profession as an interior designer. There are 11 stand-alone thatched chalets with air conditioning. The common area features a gorgeous lounge and dining room, a spacious deck with views and a small pool. While we have no hesitation recommending this place, we must note that the only way to really see the dunes at sunrise and beat the crowds is to stay inside the park gates.

In Windhoek, we stayed at the Hilton, and it was very nice. Our only complaint is that the free WiFi works only in the lobby, i.e. WiFi in your room is an extra charge.

Food and Drinks: We enjoyed lunch in Solitaire, and yes the apple pie is delicious. Other meals in the area were generally had at Hoodia Desert Lodge, where the food was great. Similar to our experience in South Africa, hotels tend not to gouge you on alcohol, which is delightful as you can enjoy perfectly fine bottles of South African wine for ~$15 even at a high-end property.

Dinner at the Hilton in Windhoek was quite good; the breakfast buffet was outstanding.

Activities: The highlight of the area is clearly visiting the red sand dunes and white pans of Namib-Naukluft National Park. The park gates open at sunrise, and there was a queue well in advance. Jenni and I hiked to the top of Big Daddy, the tallest sand dune around. We took the shorter route and needed an hour for the ascent. The views are glorious. We ran down the dune in about 10 minutes to Deadvlei, which is the white dry clay pan with dead trees you see in National Geographic photos. We never actually explored the pan of Sossusvlei itself, because after the exercise and especially the sun exposure we’d had enough. Note that some protection for your camera is advised as sand gets into everything.

We’re told that Dune 45 (so named because it is 45 km on the road past the Sesriem Gate) is the most photographed dune in the world. You could also hike that, or Big Mama, or probably various others.

On our way into the region on the first day, we stopped for about an hour at Sesriem Canyon. It is neat to see, but I would not be devastated to miss it. Hot air balloon rides are understandably popular around Sossusvlei.

October 17-20, 2014 (Friday-Monday)